Want to get a jump on beauty for spring-summer 2016? HELLO! went backstage with 10 London Fashion Week designers from Topshop to Temperley for secrets to their amazing catwalk makeup.
2/15
House of Holland
The look: This was all about the tan, with minimal makeup and natural hair.
According to St Tropez brand tanning expert Jules Heptonstall, it was a combination of Henry’s inspiration from 1960s icon Veruschka, with sand-swept beauty: a woman stranded in the desert dunes with deep, sun-kissed matte bronzing. "We gave models two coats of the St Tropez Instant Tan in light/medium and buffed in the St Tropez Powder Bronzer Matte to take away any sheen," says Jules.
Photo: Getty Images
3/15
Markus Lupfer
The look: Inspired by the arid, desert wasteland and lush flora and fauna of Mexico, Markus Lupfer’s SS16 offering channelled a tough but feminine mood. With make-up led by Lucy Burt, the eyes were lined with silver metallic molten eyeliner, with a silver PVC thorn at the outer corner of the eyes. These sharp angles were further reflected in the nails; created by Orly, the earthy base tones were juxtaposed by sequin shard tips. The face was prepped using hot towels and skincare products from Skyn Iceland – with the Arctic Facial Oil as the stand out product.
Photo: Getty Images
4/15
Julien Macdonald
The makeup: "A 1990’s-inspired smokey eye was the focus of the SS16 make-up," lead make-up artist Val Garland tells us. “I smudged the L’Oreal Paris Super Liner Smokissime over the lid and added a clear lipgloss over the top for a glass-like vinyl finish. I wanted this girl to look like she works out with athletic looking healthy skin – but she’s glam too. Sum her up in 3 words? Hot, wet and sexy!"
Photo: Getty Images
5/15
Julien Macdonald, continued:
The hair: "Julien wanted the girls to resemble Bond girls, glamorously stepping out of the sea, sun-drenched hair pushed back out of their faces," says hairstylist Syd Hayes. "We used the L’Oreal Paris Studio Line Fix and Style Fixing Mousse to saturate locks and smoothed the L’Oreal Professionnel Mythic Oil through the lengths too."
Photo: Getty Images
6/15
Julien Macdonald, continued:
The tan: "This season’s tan is all about a wet look," says St Tropez Tanning Expert Jules Hepstonstall. "I gave the girls a supermodel sheen as if they were on the front cover of Italian Vogue, shot by Mario Testino. I was liberally spraying two coats of the new St Tropez Self Tan Luxe Dry Oil all over (coming soon as a spray version, we cannot wait!) and then going over the top with a body oil for extra gleam."
We spotted: The backstage drink of choice – the Lovo Sparkling Coconut Water with vodka. Julien loved it!
Photo: Getty Images
7/15
Sophia Webster
The look: Appealing to our inner child (we desperately wanted to go home and play dress-up) was the beautiful 'mermaid' makeup by Benefit Head Makeup ArtistLisa Potter Dixon, inspired by the underwater theming of the whole collection. Pops of glitter were applied to the inner corners of the eyes, and given a marine finish with azul liner and blue mascara. We were given a sneaky peek at an exciting new launch from Benefit too – out in 2016, we predict a waiting list for the Benefit They’re Real Primer.
We spotted: Models wearing custom-made Sophia Webster dressing gowns to snuggle up in pre-show.
Photo: Getty Images
8/15
Erdem
The look: A steam train centered the backstage area, and a sand-scattered runway gave a hint of the show’s inspiration for SS16. The Erdem girl had "prairie fever – she lives on the plains with sand in her hair, sunken, burnished brown eyes and a dishevelled airy finish to the hair," said make-up artist Val Garland and hairstylist Anthony Turner. We were in awe of the models' beyond-perfect skin too – "I’ve been testing the new NARS Velvet Matte Skin Tints, they make the skin look almost elastic - tight with a beautiful finish," Val told us. Out in 2016, we have these on our beauty wishlist.
Photo: Getty Images
9/15
Giles
The look: Inspired by Queen Elizabeth I, models were given the regal treatment by make-up artist Lucia Pieroni. Porcelain doll skin was offset with black kohl liner smudged into the lashline and rimming the waterline top and bottom. Lashings of clumpy-looking mascara kept the look modern and unpolished, finished with the show-stealing heart shaped pout. "I used the MAC cosmetics 'Beet' liner to define the shape and a raspberry lipstick layered over this for a stamped on, statement," says Lucia.
We spotted: An A-list lineup, with models including Georgia May Jagger, Bella Hadid and Irina Shayk (seen here).
Photo: Getty Images
10/15
Ashish
The look: "This girl has had a liaison in a sequin factory," says Sharon Dowsett, Maybelline makeup artist. With individual sequins meticulously attached to lids, models had bespoke sparkling coats given to their eyes for a new season take on festival chic. Hair, meanwhile, was given a last minute shower of confetti by hairstylist Ali Pirzadeh, stuck on with the L’Oreal Paris Infinium Hairspray.
We spotted: Models doing their own lashes, using the brand new Maybelline Colossal Chaotic Lash Mascara.
Photo: Getty Images
11/15
Temperley London
The make-up: The South American vibe oozed an everlasting summer feeling at the Temperley SS16 show. "These girls are the travelling, outdoorsy kind", says lead make-up artist Val Garland. "They’re windswept and interesting, with beautiful, freckled skin and stained lips."
Photo: Getty Images
12/15
Temperley London, continued:
The hair: The South American vibe was similarly reflected in the hair; the loose, low ponytails sitting at the nape of the neck were slightly dishevelled, with flyaways framing the face. Some girls sported ribbon-trimmed panama hats, perfectly complementing the loose, flowing locks. Moroccanoil global ambassador Antonio Calero used Root Boost throughout to give it an uneven, undone texture, and curling irons to create loose waves in the lengths of the pony.
How to infuse nails with that summertime vibe? Gold half-moons on the fingers – Orly’s Epix Nail Polish in Tinsel Town gave a glint like a setting sun.
Photo: Getty Images
13/15
Topshop
The makeup: Hannah Murray, Topshop Beauty make-up artist explained to us that the collection for SS16 was super pretty – pastels, lots of floral tea dresses and girly sorbet shades. "In contrast, I wanted the girls to have a tougher looking edge to the makeup. Princess Margaret-meets-Courtney Love; almost trashy and like they've done it themselves, but unapologetically sexy," she said. Thus, lots of black kohl liner, super sparkling party peepers and bold red lips. Hero products are Chameleon Eyes in Shuffle The Cards, and Matte Lip Bullet in Boy Racer.
Photo: Getty Images
14/15
Topshop, continued:
The hair: Celebrating each model’s individuality, "we gave each girl a uniqueness. She’s the teenage girl jumping around her room after recreating her favorite megastar’s hair," says Anthony Turner, hairstylist.
We spotted: Looks inspired by Whitney Houston, The Runaways, Debbie Harry and Kate Moss.
Photo: Getty Images
15/15
Osman
The look: Osman’s SS16 collection was a celebration of urban individuality, embracing the personality of each model. So, forget layers of boundary-pushing makeup and futuristic hair styles: everything was pared-back and natural. "We wanted to enhance the personality of each individual through different but simple styles," says Moroccanoil Global Ambassador Antonio Calero. "These girls are on the go, they’re urban and they’re real". The styles may be different, but they do have one thing in common: the Moroccanoil treatment ensures hair is thoroughly hydrated. Makeup too, was hinged on the idea of individual simplicity. Maybelline Baby Lips was used along the cheekbones as a highlighter to give a dewy finish, with nude lipstick offsetting any natural rosiness in the cheeks. It’s the beauty of enhancing, not creating.